Showing posts with label Europe. Show all posts

Cooking the East European Way: Ukrainian Deviled Eggs


I've eaten a lot of deviled eggs in my day. I sometimes go party crazy, where I just want to live like there is always a 1970's-style party going on. I even imagine multiple variations of the theme: Fondu parties, where everybody is dressed in leisure suits and discusses art movies; Studio 54 parties, where everyone is spray painted gold and shares amyl nitrate; key parties, where everybody is dressed in leisure suits and discusses art movies.

During these party deliriums, I eat a lot of hors d'oeuvres, because that seems appropriate. And so deviled eggs have wound up being an entire section of my party nutrition pyramid, which also includes such categories as "cocktails," "canapes," and "flambes." But my experience with deviled eggs has been limited to the Midwestern version, which is, for those of you who haven't had it, a half a hard-boiled egg with its yolk removed, combined with mayonnaise and mustard, and then returned to the middle of the egg, sometimes garnished with paprika.

I had not realized there were international versions of the deviled egg until I tried this Ukrainian iteration, called "Nachynani Yayechka" or "stuffed eggs." It is very much like the Midwestern version, but with the addition of finely chopped sweet pickles and scallions to the yolk and, of course, dill as seasoning. I don't know that this is what John Steinbeck ate when he visited Ukraine in 1947, but he described eating some "strange-tasting stuffed eggs." It's possible he got another version of the recipe I located that had smoked ham in it. Maybe he got the one with chicken liver. Or mushrooms. Anyway, he's right that these don't taste like Midwestern version.

The pickle, of course, makes all the difference, and viva la difference. Obviously I already like deviled eggs, as the mustard in the filling gives the hors d'oeuvre an almost delicatessen flavor, and this quality is greatly increased with the addition of pickle -- my girlfriend makes an egg salad sandwich that contains pickle, and this is like a deconstructed version of that.

(I want to take a moment to note that my girlfriend always seems to have made her own version of whatever Slavic food I am taste testing, despite coming from a lumber family in Northern Minnesota. We were at a loss to explain it until a genetic test determined that she is part Croatian. It may also explain why her mother once tasted Slivovitz, a plum brandy that most people compare to a junkyard fire, and declared it "smooth.")

I am curious to try some of the other recipes. As I investigate these appetizers, it's become increasingly obvious to me that Ukrainians think that just about anything can be added to egg yolk, mustard, and mayo and stuffed into an egg white.

That sounds like a party to me.

Cooking the East European Way: Lazy Cabbage Rolls


This is a Ukrainian/Russian dish called "lenyvi golubtsi," which I am told translates as "lazy cabbage rolls," presumably because the meal is usually the sort of thing you'd put into a roll, but you couldn't be bothered. This may be the best-named food yet -- how many other cultures have recipes that insult your work ethic?

I have located a recipe that finely chops the ingredients, adds rice, gets squeezed into little balls, and then deep fried, but I was feeling especially lazy, so I went with the simplest recipe. This is a mix of shredded cabbage, diced carrots, tomato paste, onion, and ground beef (as I am a vegetarian, I used a vegetarian substitution). The whole of it is fried on a stovetop and left on a low heat for a while, and then just plopped onto a plate and seasoned with salt, pepper, and, this being an Eastern European dish, dill.

The results are pure comfort food, and, as a Minnesotan, a comfort food that was unexpectedly familiar. We have a rather famous local meal called hotdish, which is a savory casserole, and there are two types -- those made with a tomato base, and those made with cream of mushroom soup, which we call "Lutheran Béchamel." This tastes like the sort of thing a Minnesotan with tomato sauce might whip up, although, in Minnesota, you never know what they might throw in -- cocktail weenies, wild rice, chow mein noodles, even marshmallows, god help us. 

I decided to try an experiment and mix the leftovers with a traditional Minnesotan hotdish ingredient, egg noodles, which also seemed appropriately Jewish, because if I dumped some cinnamon on the resulting dish I could pretend it was a kugel that went terribly wrong somehow. 

And in answer to my own unstated question: Yes. Lazy cabbage rolls on top of egg noodles is a hotdish. In fact, there is an almost identical Minnesota recipe called Cabbage Hamburger Hotdish. I suppose I shouldn't be surprised by this, or by the fact that almost everything I have made so far tastes oddly familiar. Despite Minnesota's insistence that it is the unrecognized seventh Scandinavian country, we also boast a sizable Eastern European population, especially in the the Twin Cities, Duluth, and the Iron Range. 

I suppose it had never occurred to me that Eastern Europeans were secretly inserting their ingredients into Minnesota hot dish recipes. But now I know. The intention of this project was to explore the recipes of Eastern Europe, but I've come to the realization that I've already explored a lot of these recipes. They were just loaded into casserole dishes and served in church basements.

Cooking the East European Way: Fried Egg with Onion


Various sites list this as a Russian/Ukrainian recipe, but I had a hard time tracking down whether or not this is true. Finally I located a recipe called "oğanlı yumurta," which seems to mean "bulbous eggs," which is about as delightful a name as imaginable.

The recipe I made was quite simple: Chop up some onions, brown them in a pan, and then fry an egg on top of them. If I can trust Google translate, the original version also includes spices, sometimes red pepper, sometime paprika, and in some the onion are chopped into rings instead of being diced. Nonetheless, the recipe is essentially the same.

It is, as you can guess, a recipe with a strong onion flavor to it. We tend to use a light hand with onions in America, sprinkling a little raw chopped onion onto hamburgers and sandwiches as flavor, or breading and deep frying rings of the stuff. I don't know if I have ever met somebody who has just cooked an entire onion and then eaten it, even though this is a popular recipe throughout the world. I suspect the reason for this is our fear of having bad breath, but you're just going to have to set this fear aside to enjoy this meal, or other Eastern European meals that make extensive use of mounds of onion or garlic. And I haven't even started making food our of cabbage.

I like a cooked or browned onion. The vegetable develops a pleasing sweetness when cooked, and pairs well with egg without overpowering the flavor of the egg. It's a simple dish, but because it thrusts the flavor of the onion so much into the forefront, it feels like nothing an American would ever make. You see, in American, we have egg with maybe a little bit of onion.

In Russia, we have onion with maybe a little bit of egg.

Cooking the East European Way: Cucumber and Tomato Salad


It's been hot and muggy in Omaha, which is the sort of thing that makes the idea of turning on an oven and burners in the kitchen profoundly unappealing. Instead, I decided to make a Ukrainian salad, and a little research led me to something called "salat s ogurtsami i pomidorami," which literally means "salad with cucumbers and tomato."

There's more to it, of course. There's also pressed garlic, onion, and a dressing made of sour cream and mayonnaise. Oh, and the salad can be herbed as well, and a lot of recipes suggest dill, which is starting to seem like to go-to herb of choice for recipes from the former Soviet Union.

I feel a bit odd writing about this salad. I expected this project to be a voyage through the strangeness of a foreign palate, and, instead, this salad is extraordinarily familiar. I grew up eating something very like this, as did my girlfriend -- it's her go-to salad, and her diet is thoroughly Minnesotan. 

That being said, it's often not the main ingredients that make the meal, but the preparation and flavoring. We Minnesotans tend to just splash ranch dressing onto this sort of salad -- considering that ranch dressing contains garlic and dill, as well as a mayonnaise base, it's like we were trying for the Ukrainian recipe and just missed it.

And here's the difference: ranch is made with buttermilk, which has a tart sweetness. The Ukrainian dressing prefers sour cream, with its straightforward sourness, which is definitely one of the defining tastes in the Eastern European flavor profile. 

It is, I will allow, a subtle difference, but the Ukrainian dressing benefits from subtlety. I find that ranch dressing tends to overpower whatever it's put on, whereas the Ukrainian dressing allows the flavor of the cucumber and tomato to come to the fore.

Still, it's a bit like I sat down to make a Ukrainian breakfast and the results looked and tasted almost exactly like Cheerios. It's like I traveled to Kiev and the first thing I saw was a Paul Bunyan statue. It's like I signed up for an adventure packet and they sent me to my own apartment and told me to write a blog entry about Yiddish.

Cooking the East European Way: Potaptsi


There are times in my life when I think I will just give up on real food and be happy with appetizers. At really meaty restaurants, the appetizer menu is often the only refuge for a vegetarian, and a couple of appetizers are usually enough to take care of my appetite.

There is a Yiddish phrase I learned, "“A lek un a shmeck," which means "a taste and a smell" and isn't generally used in a complimentary way -- the phrase either surfaces when somebody's portions are too small, or when somebody has done an especially shoddy job on something. "He was supposed to rebuild the engine, but listen to this banging!" someone will cry. "I asked for a complete job and he gives me a lek un a shmeck?"

But I'm not sure that I don't prefer a lek un a shmeck, especially when what I am tasting and smelling is delicious. The potaptsi, as an example, which Discover Ukraine insists in a popular Ukrainian appetizer. It's easy enough to describe: It's essentially an open-faced grilled cheese sandwich with garlic and tomatoes.

But, boy, a simple description does not do it justice. Listen, I am a patron of the American grilled cheese sandwich. A partisan, even. I like it on white bread with American cheese, even though I am pretty sure I am just consuming cheese-colored petroleum on bread-shaped sawdust. I judge greasy spoons on the quality of their grilled cheese, mostly because I usually can't eat anything else, but, then, if you can't make a descent grilled cheese how can you be trusted with anything else?

This being said, I'm not sure I can go back to grilled cheese. The potaptsi is superior to it in every way. To begin with, your typical grilled cheese sandwich is only fried on the outside, leaving the bread slightly spongy, while the potaptsi bread is grilled on both sides to a lovely golden brown. This makes the bread more toastlike, and firmer, which is not only helps it support its ingredients, but also means the sandwich gets more butter or oil fried into it.

There is a reason we so often pair grilled cheese with tomato soup -- the tomato's umami flavor balances the sweeter dairy of the sandwich cheese well. But it's hard to add tomato directly to a grilled cheese sandwich -- in my experience, the results tend to be a wet, sloppy sandwich. I suspect the grilling process liquefies the tomato somewhat, and it's the sort of thing a talented chef can correct for, but the potaptsi solves the problem in a simpler way. 

Once the bread is fried, you add the tomato and grated cheese, along with fresh minced garlic, and put it in the oven at a relatively low heat for 5-7 minutes. This melts the cheese and lightly bakes the tomato, but maintains the structural integrity of the sandwich.

Finally, the recipe I worked with called for adding "verdure," which, from context, seems to simply mean "herbs." One expects any of the herbs popular in Eastern Europe would be a nice addition: dill, bay leaf, maybe horseradish. Grilled cheese in the US is not typically served with garlic and herbs, and, for Pete's sake, why not? 

There was apparently a time when we were actually afraid of garlic. Anti-Italian sentiments in America blamed the supposed hot temper of the Italians on their "spicy" food, and the spice in question was garlic. Maybe that's why the American grilled cheese sandwich is so very plain. 

Well, I can't go back. I don't care if the garlic angries up my blood. I don't care if, as the Chicago Tribune complained in 1875, garlic is the unpleasant flavor of the workman's tenement. I don't care if eating it makes me somehow more Italian.

Besides, you cut the crust off a potaptsi, so it's a very small sandwich. Barely enough to make someone too ethnic.

Just a lek really. Maybe just enough for a schmeck too.

Cooking the East European Way: Green Borscht


There are books on Jewish cooking, of course. I have a few. Most are pretty general about where foods that are typically seen as Jewish come from. Oh, sure, they'll mention that Ashkenazi Jews adapted local recipes to fulfill their dietary requirements, but often that's as far as it goes. We don't generally learn that the bagel is Polish in origin and dates back to the 16th century, and was as popular among Slavs as it is now popular among Jews. Our beloved blintz is also Slavic, and apparently pagan, as the pre-Christian Slavs reportedly saw them as symbols of the sun. And so it goes, with cholent perhaps coming from the French, knishes deriving from either Ukranian or Russian antecedents, and kugels borrowing from the Germans.

So I've decided to just go ahead and claim East Europe's food as my own. Why not? It's where my family came from, and they claimed their share. I'll follow their lead and modify it to serve my own needs, as I am a vegetarian, but the basic recipes will be those from my ancestor's countries: Russian, Ukraine, Belarus, Poland, and Moldova, as well as broader influences -- my Moldovan connection gives me license to explore Romanian food, while Poland leads me to Lithuania, and Ukraine gives me Mongolian and Turkish food. I know this is all just an exercise in making excuses to eat food I want to eat, but if you invaded or were invaded by one of my family's ancestral homes, I'm going to go ahead and eat your food.

I started with a Ukranian dish. Ukraine is a global breadbasket as a result of huge reserves of farmland (it's one of the reasons people keep invading), and so Ukraine is a country with an extensive and varied cuisine -- they have something like 30 varieties of borscht, which is a commitment to borscht you just don't see all that often.

So borscht was to be my first meal. Borscht is still something I am learning to love, and I blame my American upbringing. Americans have a notorious sweet tooth, and so a soup that could fairly be described as "sour" isn't going to be the first thing we turn to. Borscht is generally made with beetroot, which is also not something common in American cuisine, and it's often made with pickled ingredients and served cold, and this is about as far from a candy bar as it is possible for a food to get.

I started with green borscht, which does not have beetroot, but is typically made with sorrel instead. It's not that easy to get sorrel in Omaha, so I used a common substitution: spinach. One website suggested adding a splash of citrus to duplicate sorrel's acidity -- although spinach is alkaline, apparently it doesn't have that sour punch that is so distinctive of sorrel.

The other ingredients for the soup include diced potatoes, a smattering of rice, sour cream, and dill and green onions for flavoring, as well as a hard-boiled egg that has been chopped up. There are other recipes out there, but this is a good combination -- the resulting soup is a bit like cream of potato, but the spinach, dill, and green onions give it a sharp, earthy flavor. I'm not usually in the habit of chucking an egg into my soup, but I made my own ramen last week and that also called for a hard-boiled egg, so I am starting to think everybody else puts egg in their soup and I've just never noticed.

This is a soup that Jews absconded with a long time ago, re-dubbing it schav or shtshav in Yiddish, although that's barely a new name, as it is called szczaw in Polish, so our Yiddish name is a bit like we claimed the hot dog, insisted it was a Jewish food, and it's Yiddish name was the khat dag.

Green borscht can be served hot or cold. I've only had it hot so far, and, let me tell you, it's a great partner for a grilled cheese sandwich on a rainy night. Or perhaps I should refer to the sandwich by its Yiddish name: grill kez.

Europe


Sometimes I feel like I do my ethnicities exactly backwards. I am biologically Irish but was adopted into a Jewish family, and I always want to do Irishness the way a Jew would and Jewishness the way an Irish-American would.

Irish-Americans, you see, are tremendously invested in the idea of being part of an Irish diaspora. There is a great fascination for contemporary Irish politics and culture. Irish-Americans take trips to Ireland and fly Irish flags and hang out in bars built in Ireland and representing a sort of nostalgic Irishness. If you read the Irish-American press, it often seems like the American wing of the Irish press, republishing stories from Irish daily news. Irish-Americans are obsessed with whatever county their ancestors came from (and often retain relationships with distant cousins still in Ireland), and, in general, behave as though they're just Irishmen living abroad and might return at any moment. I do this too. I'm Facebook friends with distant biological cousins in County Mayo.

In the meanwhile, there is little interest in an explicitly Irish-American identity. I should know -- I also run a website called "The Happy Hooligan" which primarily concerns itself with the Irish-American identity, and it has been met mostly with shrugs from my fellow Irish-Americans.

In the meanwhile, American Jews have things exactly reversed. While we do view ourselves as a diaspora people, we have not been scattered away from Europe, but instead from Israel, long ago. We're obsessed with the experience of being American, and what it means to be a Jew in America. But those of us who have roots in Europe don't seem to have much interest in them. There is some historic interest, yes -- Jews will take Holocaust tours of Poland, as an example, visiting the ghettos and the extermination camps. And there are some that visit cemeteries and shtetls, to see where their families came from.

But very few American Jews see themselves as somehow connected to those places in a contemporary way. My brother was once in the Marines, and was honorably discharged, and complained that all they did was discuss fighting with Russia. "But I'm Russian," he told my father. "Our grandfather came from Russia!"

"We're not Russian," he responded. "We're Jewish."

I think this is understandable. Although my grandparents came to America before the Holocaust, they came to escape antisemitism, and those that remained were, almost without exception, murdered. I can understand wishing to wash your hands of Europe, wanting to leave and never look back. Especially for Jews, whose European experience was always a bit unconventional. Jews were rarely treated as indigenous members of any European nationality, but instead as rootless interlopers. Jews often lived in areas that were largely Jewish, primarily spoke a Jewish language, and sometimes entire Jewish communities would uproot themselves (or, more often, be uprooted) and move to a different country altogether.

So when Jews came to America, they may not have felt much connection to the place they left, even if their families had been their for centuries. And so we let whatever European nationality we had evaporate. We were not Polish Jews, we were not Lithuanian Jews, we were not Ukrainian Jews, we were just Ashkenazi Jews, even if those distinctions had once meant quite a lot.

It still means a lot to me. Although I understand the impulse to just leave the past in the past, especially when it is so fraught with pain and betrayal, the Jewish experience in Europe predates the rise of the Roman Empire and continues to this day -- there are about two million Jews in Europe today.

In his book "Yiddish Civilization," author Paul Kriwaczek wrote about growing up in an England whose understanding of the Jews of Europe mirrored my own when I was younger -- a sort of generalized shtetl story, largely influence by "Fiddler on the Roof." I think a lot of Americans think about their family's histories like this, largely because their families, understandably, refused to discuss it. We all seem to think we are descended from impoverished farmers who lived in largely Jewish villages, occasionally contending with Cossacks who rode over the hills but otherwise leading a simple, sagely life.

But it wasn't like this for most. Many of Europe's Jews lead an urban experience, and many of the places that we still remember as being centers of the Jewish experience were, in fact, huge cities that the Jews shared with non-Jewish neighbors. Vilna, as an example, is Vilnius, the capitol of Lithuana, and was primarily Gentile, but had so large a Jewish population that it was known as the "Jerusalem of Lithuania." In fact, there was a Jewish sect that migrated to Lithuania in the 15th century called the Karaim, who served as an elite military unit, which is not the sort of Jewish story you usually hear from Eastern Europe.

We also don't hear that there were Jewish Cossacks, but there were. There was a Ukrainian group called the Zaporozhian Cossacks who apparently couldn't give a fig about someone's religion, and so they had Jews in their ranks. And in 1878, one of Catherine the Great's ministers founded a regiment of Jewish Cossacks called The Israilovsky Regiment -- as their name suggests, they were intended for Israel, where they were supposed to liberate Jerusalem. There are other stories of Jewish Cossacks, and I like this stories. They are worth remembering.

Anyone who studies Jewish cooking knows that we simply borrowed and adapted the food of  our gentile neighbors. The fashion favored by many Hasids was borrowed from the clothes of Polish nobility. Yiddish is a great borrower, drawing from almost every European language and superimposing it upon what often feels like a Slavic structure -- with touches of Greek, Latin, and even Turkic. Yiddish theater borrowed from the conventions of European folk theater, while klezmer borrowed from military music, Gypsy musicians, and European folk songs.

We were never just Jews, living in some sort of bubble that separated us from Gentile Europe. We were Europeans, and, more than that, we were Europeans whose experiences often were shaped by the part of Europe we came from.

So while I understand my father, I do not agree with him. We were not just Jews, we were Russian Jews -- and, having known many, many Jewish immigrants from Russia, I know just how very Russian they can be. We weren't just Russian, either. As I construct my adoptive family's genealogy, I find Belarussians, Poles, Bessarabians, and Ukrainians.

Maybe not enough time has past since the Holocaust for us to reclaim our European identities, to see ourselves as products of a second exile, an exile from Europe. Maybe we will never be able to look at the politics or culture of, say, contemporary Belarus and feel like it has anything to do with us in the way that Irish-Americans are obsessed with contemporary Ireland. Perhaps the betrayal was too great. Maybe there is no going back when all so much of Europe rejected you and spendt a decade trying to exterminate you. Especially when there is still so much antisemitism in Europe -- why would we want to claim a heritage that still despises us?

I don't have any answers. I just have an interest, and maybe it's the Irish in me. But I can't help but want to know more about the places my family came from, even if all they wanted was to leave it behind.